The End of an Era

I know it has been some time since I've posted.  Life has been typically busy.  John John and Pauly have been on the go with school and activities.  John is now the III MEF (Third Marine Expeditionary Force) COPSO (Current Operations Officer) and, I can say this without exaggerating, he is the busiest I've ever seen him in his entire career.  John John and I have had a little break in our normal schedule as we just returned from a trip to Tokyo. (Okay, so maybe we didn't just return, but I'm only now getting caught up so I have time to write.)

This trip was very special for John and I because it was the last major high school swim meet that he attended.   It was bittersweet as I sat on a blanket, on the floor of a cafeteria, watching a movie on my computer.  I was uncomfortable and tired.  Then, a mother who is my age, but has a child who is young, walked up to me and said, "You are so lucky".

I took off my head phones and listened to this mother tell me how lucky I was that I could just sit down, watch a movie and leave the rest to my son.  He is on autopilot.  It is true.  I get up to watch him swim and then I do my own thing in between events.  I don't have to fuss about making sure he has his goggles, has gone to the restroom, has eaten something healthy.  I don't have to worry about writing his event, heat and lane information, in Sharpie marker, on his arm.  I just sighed and said to this mother, "Don't worry.  It goes fast."

I admit, it is nice to know I'll never have to sit, for hours and hours,  on the floor of a gym or cafeteria, waiting for my son's next event.  (There is usually not enough space for parents to sit in the pool area.) It is nice to know I don't have to travel with sleeping bags, quilts, books, computers, food and drinks.  (I feel like a refugee when I'm going to a swim meet.)  

My boy is now a man.  He will be off to college next year and I will only get to see him swim when I get back from Okinawa.   I am excited for him, but I am a little bit sad, too.  It is the end of an era for us.  I silently rejoice when I think about no longer have to endure hours on end sitting in a gym.  But then, my heart has a little ache.  I will no longer hear, "Mom, do you have a marker?" or "I dropped a lot of time!"

I began this post with the intention of simply sharing some things I saw in Tokyo.  The meet was held at St. Mary's International School, in a residential area of Tokyo.  I only got out for a few walks when John had a long break between events.  But, I think I will just put up a few pictures from the meet as this turned out to be a post not about Tokyo, but about our last high school swim meet:

This is the entrance to St. Mary's International School where the meet was held. The school looks like a small college campus.  The total amount to send your child to this school: $35, 868.79!  

 In the photo above John is standing next to the block, watching the competition.  And, in the photo below, John, the lead in the relay, hits the wall as his team mate heads in the water for his leg of the race.

The Okinawa Dolphin Swim Team after the meet, awaiting the arrival of the other teams and the awards ceremony.  

The Okinawa Dolphins Swim Team, after the award ceremony.  The small team, that practices outside all year (And, it gets to be in the 50's on Okinawa!) took 5th place!!   They competed agains 14 other teams, most of whom came from large swim clubs or other international schools. I'm very proud of our tough military kids and our dedicated coaching staff.  

Scuba Diving

When we moved to Okinawa our intention was to travel during the winter break.  However, having just moved here we did not plan a trip soon enough to avoid extreme expenses.  So,  we decided to use this time to become PADI Open Water Divers.

It was a lot more exhausting than I imagined due to all the weight we had to carry (tank, weights).     But, it was exciting and we all loved our instructor, who was enthusiastic and made even the tediousness of practicing skills over and over an enjoyable event.

Okinawa is the perfect location to become a scuba diver.  There is so much to see!  While we had to practice our skills during our open water sessions, I really enjoyed seeing all the fish and a few sea snakes (Okay, not really happy to see them).  We cannot wait to get into the water and enjoy all the natural wonders.  Once I get used to dealing with the compass and gauges I hope to get a camera so that I can take pics and share the interesting sea creatures with you.

John John is the first in the video, with the blue tipped snorkel.  Pauly is behind him, with the yellow snorkel.  As the camera moves you will see, in the background, Pauly and John John doing their brother handshake.  John and I are doing the "Okay" sign.

 John and Pauly gear-up!

While the hood is warm the water temp was 72 degrees so I opted out of the medieval knight look for the next dive.  The hood was very tight... can you tell by my squished cheeks!

Taipei

As many of you have seen on my facebook page, John John and I took a trip to Taipei, Taiwan for a swim meet.  We had a fantastic time!   While we didn't have a lot of time to see the sights, which will be remedied with a future trip, we did get out a bit.  

The swim meet was sponsored by the Taipei American School (TAS).  But, don't let the name of the school fool you.  The school, as did all the others who participated, had an international student body.  We spend the weekend with families from across the globe and it was unlike any swim meet that we've ever attended.  

First, TAS ran a tight ship.  I've never been to a more efficiently run event that dealt with swimmers from the age of 8-18 years.  And, secondly, I've never been to a meet where the parents of swimmers from other teams cheer for your child.  It was meet that embodied sportsmanship on every level.

TAS was located one block away from our lovely hotel and the very long street on which the hotel and school lay was full of shops and eateries.  We had a great time window shopping and were able to enjoy the amazing culinary experience for which Taipei is renowned.  

On one evening we had time to wander through on of the famous night markets of Taipei.  Sensory overload doesn’t quite describe the experience:  There was the assault of smells coming from the many food stands...both good and not so good smells.  The crowd, the cacophony from the many competing merchants and the rain created a throbbing beat known as the Shilin Night Market.

Please enjoy some photos from our trip:

 The older swimmers playing cards at the airport as we await our flight to Taipei.

 I loved the style of Hotel Dandy!  This was the area in which we ate breakfast.  The hotel accommodated our swimmers' early morning schedule by providing breakfast an hour earlier.  Now that is customer service!

 This is the view from our 8th floor room at the hotel.  This district of Taipei is known for being the home to ex-pats and those from around the world that work in Taipei.  

 The Cafe Market restaurant at which we had the most amazingly fresh, cook to order meal.

John is enjoying his own noodle creation. 

Choose your noodles, broth, meat, veggies and it was cooked to order at the noodle bar.

 At a lovely 9 floor mall we enjoyed the elevator operator who was dressed for the holidays and bowed each time a door closed as the elevator departed.

 Not the best photo, but lucky that we were able to get the picture taken without anyone walking in front of the camera.  We are about to enter the maze of the Shilin Market.

 A little gaming at the Shilin Market. 

 As my dear friend said, "Wow... No!"  I couldn't agree more!

 How my head felt by the end of the evening!

This was located nearby our departure gate at the Taipei airport.  What are they trying to say?!  

This will be a bit of a long post, however I think you will enjoy the little history lesson about Okinawa and the photos that follow.

 A Little History

Approximately 32,000 years ago it is believed that the first humans lived in the Ryukyu Archipelago.  It is widely believed that the people of Okinawa are descendants of those who traveled from China to the islands during the prehistoric era.  And, there is archaelogical and current cultural evidence of a strong southern pacific influence on the island of Okinawa, the largest of the Ryukyu islands.

Let's leap forward to the Gusuku ("goo-skoo") period.  Gusuku is the word used for castle.   It is around the 12th century that strong political forces began to dominate the Okinawan political climate.  Warlords known as aji ("ah-gee") fought fiercely.  And, in order to protect their "kingdoms" they built castles.  

Fast forward again.  In the early 1300's the Three-Kingdom period began.  As a result of submission to stronger warlords and treaties three dominant kingdoms emerged: the southern, middle and northern kingdoms.   The Three-Kingdom period lasted until 1429 when Sho Hashi defeated the ajis thereby unifying Okinawa (known as Ryukyu at the time) and marking the birth of the Sho Dynasty.

Due to the stability brought through unification Okinawa created strong diplomatic and economic (through trade) ties with China, Japan, Korea and many regions of Southeast Asia.  And, because of its ideal location, Okinawa became a hub of trade.

Shurijo or Shuri Castle (Shurigusuku), located in the southern portion of the island  became the political, economical and cultural seat of Okinawa.  It is from this Castle that the Sho Dynasty ruled.  The first Sho Dynasty lasted 40 years until a farmer took the throne in a coup.  

The Okinawans had strong ties with China and out of respect for those ties the farmer took the title Sho En, keeping the Dynasty in name.  This began the second Sho Dynasty and it lasted for the next 400 years.  

Recognizing the value of controlling a hub of trade the Satsuma Clan from mainland Japan invaded, seizing Shuri Castle thus ending the second Sho dynasty.

Okinawa was then ruled by the Satsuma Clan followed by the Tokugawa Shogunate.  Still, Okinawa did not become a Japanese prefecture until 1879 when the Japanese government forcibly ousted the king from Shuri Castle therefore ending the "Kingdom of the Ryukyu".

Now for some pictures..... There are five gates that lead to Shuri Castle, two pictured here.  What gate you entered depended upon your social standing.   In accordance with feng shui as well as for strategical purposes, the castle was set on high ground nearby the pond and stream with a view of the ocean.  About the grounds you can see the caves in which the Japanese Army burrowed.  The castle, even during WWII, proved to be formidable.  However, in the end, it was destroyed.  I will write more, in the future, about Okinawa during WWII. This is the site of the castle's well.  You can see, in the background, there are remnants of the original wall. After WWII the grounds served as the campus for the University of the Ryukyus. When the university was relocated, the Castle was restored to its present condition. The present Shurijo Castle is modeled after the 18th Century structure and as you can see, the influence of Chinese culture is quite strong.   Above: The King's Throne.   We visited Shuri Castle during the yearly festival.  A parade that lasts 3 hours (yes, 3 hours!) begins at the port and marches up to the castle.  The photo below is the beginning of the parade.   The parade route runs along Kokusaidori (International Road) or as we call it "The Miracle Mile"  There are many stores and eateries.  We watched the parade as we browsed through stores and from the restaurant at which we had lunch.   And, of course, as an important part of Okinawa's modern history, the US Marines end the parade with their impeccable performance. A bit of fun on Kodusaidori.  There is a benimo tart store where you can watch the tarts being made.  Yes, that is me posing as the, ahem..., little tartlet! =D Some things just don't translate well.

Creepy Crawly: The Creatures of Okinawa

As I write this I understand that the east coast is being hit by Hurricane Sandy, otherwise known as "Frankenstorm".   I am completely confident that you will all be well, perhaps without electricity, but well.  And, while I wish you could be spared this hurricane, I can't help saying, "Better you than me".   After we've had 4 typhoons in the period of one 2 months I can't help thanking  the weather gods for spreading the wealth.

I've been saving this post for a while because I thought it would be appropriate to share on Halloween.  However, it is after the last typhoon that I thought to share with you the critters of Okinawa.  You see, after a typhoon all the creepy crawly beings are quite flustered and they are on the move.   I was warned, quite strongly, by our lawn care provider that I should be on the lookout for the Habu after a typhoon.  The Habu snake is not the only thing on the move so, without further ado, I would like to introduce you to some of Okinawa's creepy crawlers!

This is "Shell-don".  He lives nearby our side door.  He is about the size of the palm of my hand.  This is no wee hermit crab. And, despite his cumbersome looking mobile home, he moves rather quickly.  "Shell-don" is harmless and a regular occupant of our yard.  We look for him in the evening so that we don't accidently hear a "crunch" when walking outside.

Anyone who has talked to me on the phone or seen my facebook comments will know that we have geckos...lots of geckos.  They are called "yaru" (yah-roo) and that means "guardian of the house". The Okinawan people believe that the gecko brings good luck so they are not killed.  They do eat bugs, which is the only reason I tolerate them in the house.  While the gecko may eat bugs and bring good fortune, it also brings lots of poop.  Proportionally speaking, the gecko, which is about the size of my thumb, poops like a New York City rat.

This is the body print of a baby gecko.  It was on the lid of my kitchen garbage can.  The baby gecko is about 1 inch in length and must have just been hatched in a location where it picked up a bit of dust (probably a vent).  

This little (not!) guy is nick named the "banana" spider.    Bottom line:  They aren't poisonous, but their bite is painful, which is only mildly reassuring.  The leg span of the "banana" spider is about 5-6 inches long.  This spider is big and that is a good thing.  I can spot one of these long before bumbling into one of its webs.

The Habu snake is probably the most vile of all land creatures here on Okinawa.  They are very poisonous.  They are most active during the fall and spring and after a typhoon shakes up the natural environment.  They are also nocturnal.  So, since I have no intention of cutting a swath through the jungle at night I hope to never come face to face with one of these lovelies.

Yup... those are jars with Habu snakes.  The jars are filled with sake (sah-keh) and are sold in many stores on Okinawa.  No need to find your way to a back alley, seedy hole in the wall to purchase one of these as they are quite main stream.

There is a definite lack of wild furry creatures.  So, when I happened to see this furry little guy I was a bit surprised.  (As it turns out, I only know of two animals with fur.  You'll read about the other below.)  This is a mongoose.  The mongoose is not native to the Ryukyu islands, but was brought to Okinawa in the early 1900's to help curb the habu population.  Good intention, bad outcome.  Yes, the mongoose will actually devour a habu snake and live to eat another.  However, there is one problem:  The habu is nocturnal and the mongoose is not.  This has caused a problem on the island as the mongoose eats other creatures the Okinawans would rather it didn't.  Plus, the mongoose has no natural predators on the island.  Frankly, I'm just happy to see something that looks cute and fluffy.

Our other furry friend is the Ryukyu flying fox or as I like to call them, bats. The flying fox is actually a fruit bat that is not in the least dangerous to humans.  Within 24 hours of our arrival I spotted one of these flying overhead at twilight.  I've since seen them flying about at twilight, in the pre-dawn hours and it was very interesting, if a bit creepy, when I spotted one hanging upside-down from a tree sleeping.  I hear that these are endangered, yet I see them at least once a day.

Last, but definitely not the least is the box jellyfish.  I was only going to write about land critters in this post, but this creature deserves a mention as both John and Paul were stung by one of these back in 2004 when we were here for a visit.  The tentacles leave burn marks on the skin that resemble the tentacles themselves.  These are nasty creatures and even though I know they must serve some purpose in the eco system, they are in the top 10 of my "Useless Creature" list.   Thankfully, there is a beach nearby that has a "jellyfish" net in the water and we can swim there without the little, back- of -your- mind feeling that we might get stung.


That's enough critters for now.  I hope everyone is safe and dry during your "Frankenstorm" and we all wish you a HAPPY HALLOWEEN=D

Photo Credits: The photo of the mongoose and the fruit bad come from a blog called Mike's Ryukyu Gallery.  The photo of "Shell-don" and the gecko print are mine.  The other gecko comes from a blog called Love Okinawa.  

USO Camp Schwab

I recently began working at the Camp Schwab USO.  In just a short time I am hooked and excited to help make the USO on Schwab a better place for the Marines who are stationed here.  Camp Schwab is  the northern-most base on Okinawa and it is isolated.  There are  no bells and whistles for the Marines on Schwab.  The Marines, 90% of them unable to get a driver's license due to their age, are on the base for most of their tour, only getting to explore the island in a limited capacity.

To make life more friendly the Schwab USO, led by a very enthusiastic former Marine, does its best to create fun events and provide much needed entertainment.  The USO also has phones and computers and programs to help keep the Marines and their families in touch.

As you'll read below, Camp Schwab USO receives very little in the way of funding, yet here we are, serving breakfast to 400 Marines!  It was a fantastic event and just one of many the Camp Schwab USO sponsors.

The hungry Marines waiting their turn.  Pancakes were flying!

Your US Marines who live on Camp Schwab need your support.   Camp Schwab is home to deployed Marines who are here without their families.  John was deployed here numerous times so I know, first hand, how difficult it is for the Marines to be separated from their loved ones.

I volunteer there (as opposed to the USO on the other bases on island) because every time John was deployed to the camp he told me how much help was needed at the USO.  And, he was right!

Our roof is a mess after the last typhoon, our facility is ancient (we have to run the water for an hour before it turns to pale rust), there are tons of projects to do around the building and the Marines always look forward to the special events.

This takes money and we don't get too much alloted to Schwab USO.

These service members deserve better!!

Want to help?  You can help us do a lot with just a little.  Please think about sending a small donation.

Children love to send letters and pictures so get them involved as well.

If you can help out please send the donations to:

PSC 559 Box 6243
FPO AP 96377

(This is an FPO AP so it is considered domestic mail.  Please DO NOT write Japan on the envelope.)

If you feel energetic and want to run a fundraiser back home please let me know.  I can help make it more personal by sending you pics and info about Camp Schwab.  And, if you take pics of your fundraiser we will put them on the Camp Schwab USO Facebook page.

The Boys

The boys have adjusted well to life on island.  They are very active at Kubasaki High School, home of the Dragons.  They are enjoying their new school and will be attending Home Coming on 13 October.

John is enrolled in AP classes and is in the National Honor Society.  He is swimming for the Okinawa Dolphin Swim Team and will travel to Taiwan in November for a "travel" meet.   John will begin volunteer work at the USO this week.  He is also very busy researching colleges and very soon he will be applying to those that are a good fit.  

Pauly is wrapping up football season and is wearing the green and white!  I was hopeful that his wearing Jets colors would be a good omen for the Jets.  Not so much. Pauly has enjoyed the football season, but I think he is ready to get back to soccer for the spring.  He is also very busy with JROTC rifle team and color guard. Paul has stepped up his academic game and is in advanced classes and he will also begin volunteering at the USO this week.  

Paul's position:  Corner

 He may be new to the game, but number 35 sure looks like he belongs on that football field!

 Pauly has good speed and has made a few very good tackles this season.

 Looking much like one of the young Marines in the barracks across the street, Pauly wears the uniform well!

 John hasn't had an official swim meet as of yet.  His first will be on October 14th.  However, he was asked to participate in a triathlon relay.  Here he awaits his team's biker to tag him so that he can start the 800 meter swim.

 John held the lead after his teammate came in first from the bike ride.  He came in quite a few minutes before the next swimmer.

 After the swim!

Team Hammer poses as they hold their first place trophies.   

Welcome to Our Home

As promised to many who've asked, here is a tour of our home...which kind of looks like every other building on all the military installations.... beige and square.  It is a bit difficult giving directions (Turn left at the big beige building next to the green field, turn right at the small beige building at the hill, etc.).   Luckily, you can just scroll below to "visit".

 As you can see, the house is a concrete fortress.  I know there are a lot of wives who don't like the style of the homes, but I love it!..Very modern.

The very large carport is loved by all of us as we are very close to the door.  No more hauling groceries up to the 4th floor of our Fredericksburg condo.

This door is the entry we use each day.  It is very rare that we open our front door, when I can get it open....you'll see in a moment....

We enter through our very large laundry room.  As you can see I have a refrigerator in the laundry room and in the kitchen.  Plus I have many, many closets and cabinets.  (bliss)

The kitchen is rather large.  I'd love to put an island in the middle, but then I like all the open space because it gets crowded when all of us are in the kitchen at the same time.

I love the palm tree outside my kitchen window, which, while small, lets in a lot of light.  From the outside the home doesn't look like it lets in a lot of light, but I was pleasantly surprised that it is very bright in the house, even on a cloudy day like today.  

The kitchen has three doors leading to it: one from the laundry room, one from the living room and one from the front foyer.  However, I don't feel closed off because of all the light from the window and the cut-out to the living room.  Mostly we leave the doors open, but they are nice to close when the dishwasher and clothes washer are running

This is the foyer, kitchen door on right and more closets on left.

 If you look closely, our front door has 4 locks.  No chance that this door will blow off during a typhoon and it is pretty much Camille proof, too. 

Our great room walls are huge.  We clearly do not have enough art work.   I've thought of painting the walls the color of our palette from Fredericksburg, but am debating the merits since I'll only have to paint the walls back to eggshell before we move.   The question is: How long can I endure so much eggshell!   In any case, these walls will be getting more color one whether it is art work or paint.

Our furniture, well suited for the condo, gets a little swallowed up by all the space, but since we like open spaces it works for us.  Plus, I have room to practice hula hooping!...more on that another time...

This type of embellishment is very popular in many homes.  

It isn't easy to tell in a photograph, but through this triple canopy jungle, seen from our backyard, is Kin Bay.   

This is the patio off our living room.  I cannot wait to get a grill and outdoor furniture.  I love our yard, the jungle is deep and rich in greens.  The many textures and shapes and sizes of the tropical plants is soothing and the plants and trees are home to many birds that sing throughout the day.  I find it relaxing to be outside.  Again, hard to see, but Kin Bay is just past the jungle and down a cliff face.  

Lilly.  She came with the house.  Just kidding.  We adopted poor little Lilly who had a very traumatic start in life.  She is beautiful, a little stand-offish, but coming out of her shell.  She is also an amazing shake-down artist when she wants a treat.

Meezy is about as busy and nosy as her alert blue eyes suggest.  While she looks at rest here, she was watching me organize drawers and it wasn't soon before she started to squeak, only to be satisfied when I picked her up and let her look into the top drawer.

Our home has 4 bedrooms and two baths as well, but I figured that would be TMI.   I hope you enjoyed a look around our home, which, again is a fortress, so when you hear about our upcoming super typhoon (Yes!  Another one!)  you will no longer feel the need to worry about our safety.  We live in a great big beige, concrete fortress worthy of safeguarding gold or, better yet, your loved ones.